I woke up with ice on my forehead and white face paint on my sleeping bag. Despite my best efforts in the camp shower last evening, there was no soap and no mirror, and so actually I hadn’t washed off much of the white paint at all. Yesterday I looked ghoulish, today I just looked confusing.

Like aged, disinterested, quite soft crocodiles, we wrestled our mattresses into the car, then ate breakfast and ultimately we were ready to depart about 10% faster than yesterday. As Fauce and I say to each other every morning; soon we’ll be ready to start this rally. Our key learning from this morning was; yes, tuck your tomorrow trousers into the swag with you, but go one step further and pop them into your sleeping bag. That way you don’t have to pull on wet, semi-frozen trousers to start the day. That’s pro-camping.

It came as a great surprise to us at the morning briefing that today we would be driving a lot, and lots of it would not be on very good roads. We mouthed things to each other like “did you know we would be driving this much?” and then shrugged our shoulders theatrically while looking around at our fellow rally-ers who seem wholly aware and supportive of it.

So today we journeyed from Silverton through Broken Hill and Wilcannia to Hungerford. We are still on our 1500km, 48 hour detour to avoid the wet road, so Hungerford, and perhaps also the route there, felt hastily arranged. I can confirm, however, that you can buy paw-paw lip balm at the Ampol in Wilcannia, which feels like real progress to me.

This was our first real stretch of relentless dirt road for the rally and at first it was a great thrill, not particularly stressful, and afforded wonderful photos of red dirt and opportunities to spray vast waves of muddy water everywhere through the dips and culverts. Wonderful stuff.

As the sun slipped lower, slowly melted away and then completely gave up on us for the day, we realised however, that the sticky cloud of dust in which we had been driving all day might prove to be something of an obstacle at night.

The cloud enveloped us. Our tepid headlights threw out just enough light to rattle around between the dust particles, this way and that, but not enough to cut through. And so the whole convoy slowed to a walk, each of us floating in our own ethereal dust bubble, guided only by the blurry pricks of red tail-light bobbing about in front, which were in turn guided by their own red tail-light, and so on and so on. Each of us under the flimsy presumption that at the end of this long chain of tail-light reliance there was a car that knew where it was going.

For an hour or more Fauce and I lost our tail-light safety blanket and so drifted through the outback alone, in a dream-state, listening to Simply Red, not always sure we were on the road; occasionally running through a small patch of spinifex and so then turning away from that spinifex and back onto the bumpy, gravelly bit which may have been the road, but may also have just been ‘the outback’. We never hit tree nor shrub, which we thought was a good thing, but then again when the sun had set it didn’t seem as it there was much to speak of in the way of tree or shrub.

Just as we had submitted ourselves to the fact we were 300km off track in the middle of a thankless desert, a tiny pin-prick of red light sprang for a moment above the horizon. We yelped with joy and accelerated ever so slightly towards it, and ultimately rejoined the snail-paced convoy as it lurched and jolted through the desert.

And so, in this way we all finally reached camp at the Hungerford showground, or rodeo ring, or marketplace, and quickly set up in the dark. After a very tasty dinner put on by the very fine residents of Hungerford, we set up near the fire to watch the triage tent crank into action; the road today had claimed many a victim.

The fire began as a very pleasant affair; warming, invigorating, but not imperiling. Then the logs began to arrive. At the morning briefing ‘those with utes’ were instructed to ‘pick up some firewood’ during the drive. Now, if you want an instruction to be enthusiastically carried out, tell a group of ute-driving men to out-firewood each other.

Wow. Some of the logs looked like whole trees, hewn from the earth with bare hands. Ute after ute pulled up and triumphantly disgorged their bounty, building enormous piles of timber all around us, as if we were preparing to build a new community centre. And once the wood has been collected the wood must be burned!

And so on it went, trunk after trunk. None for later. All for now! And so what started as pleasant campfire quickly became pagan sacrifice and we were forced to retreat a good 50 meters, lest our polyester trousers catch fire.

Before bed we added one more item to the list of things Fauce and Jupiter cannot do, but I can’t even really describe it, it was a partial conversation we overhead during the pagan sacrifice and it was something about cutting up a star picket and welding it into some or other part of the engine, or engine-adjacent area. Wild stuff.

Tomorrow we are back on schedule and on our way to Windorah.

Frosty swags and frosty heads